Laying a patio
For years to come, the durability, functionality and general appearance of your patio will depend on how you address the following stages:

Stage 1 - mark out the area of your patio and dig down approximately 200mm. If this involves removing any lawn or top soil, consider re-using them in other areas of the garden.

Stage 2 - lay and level your sub base (Hard-core or Crusher Run) to a thickness of about 100mm. The depth of sub base depends on the type of usage you are anticipating.

Stage 3 - a level course of laying base is required to a depth of approximately 50 - 60mm. It is quite permissible to compact this and then lightly lift the surface with a rake to facilitate laying.

Stage 4 - there are many acceptable routines for laying the paving i.e.

Whichever method you use remember to keep checking the level.

Stage 5 - once completed leave the patio overnight or longer if possible remembering that if you have used cement mixture on the back of the slabs this will take time to fully harden. Depending on the type of paving used, brush in kiln dried sand or point with mortar into the small spaces between the slabs. This will give it that professional, finished appearance.Considerations

Laying block paving
Block paving looks good. It is hard wearing, easy to maintain and has simple handling qualities. This means that certain projects are within the abilities of most DIY enthusiasts. Be it patio, driveway, hard standing, pathway or feature area, the simplicity and versatility of block paving makes your creative ideas easy to translate into practical applications. There are various designs to choose from to suit your taste and aspect. However, you can introduce your own design or pattern by using different colours. For marking out, digging out, compacting and laying course see stages 1-3 above.

The blocks require a firm edge restraint to hold them in position. This edge must be cemented or fixed firmly in position to hold the blocks in place once weight is brought to bear. Remember to allow time for any cement to harden fully before laying.

Start laying from a firm point (i.e. the edging restraint) working away from you. Lay in the design chosen trying to work in straight lines with the blocks firmly against each other. You may choose to leave any cuts to the end and do them altogether or you can do them as they become apparent. Do not walk on the blocks until the job is finished and all are locked into position.

Once complete, the whole job needs to be compacted to lock it into position. It is advisable to have a rubber cover on the Plate Compactor when doing these final runs to avoid unnecessary scuffing. Once locked into position spread kiln dried sand on to the blocks and brush it into the fine spaces between. This gives a finished and professional look. Blocks can be sealed if required but it is advisable to seek the recommendation of your stockist.

Building walls
As with any other type of building work preparation is the key. Start by digging out the foundations. How deep these are depends on the size of the intended structure. You may need to fill the bottom of the trench with hard-core or sub base dependant on the planned height of the wall.
Pour rough mix concrete into the trench, roughly level it and then leave it to harden. This will now form the base on which your wall will be built.

Lay blocks on the prepared base and check with a spirit level. Use a string tautly fixed on two points at either end of the trench to maintain direction. Repeat the process until the desired height is achieved. For walls above two courses you may need to seek professional help.

Remember to leave drainage gaps in the wall if soil is retained by it above ground level. When laying the blocks on top of each other stagger the ends to give greater strength and visual appeal.